Archive for September, 2009

Counter Productive

Sunday, September 27th, 2009

When I cook at home, I create a large mess. I can’t help myself. I do not take what I learned and practiced at school or (practice at) my new job (yes you read correctly, I am now employed at the Marion Street Cheese Market in Oak Park). At home, I am free to do whatever I want and I just go nuts. I disregard that brilliant French term, mise en place, (miz a plas)—it means, “everything in its place.”

For some reason I start throwing things together before I have a real game plan. I have no order, no rhyme or reason—just one big explosion of food. The other night, I made a triple batch of cookies, fish tacos, homemade salsa, pickled red onions, and skillet sweet potatoes. I thought I was going to start at 3:00pm, it was more like 5:30 when things actually got moving. We ate late that night. I was annoyed looking around the kitchen; I saw flour dusted over the countertops, a mountain of dirty dishes, and a couple of rogue onions on the floor. I wanted to cry it was so messy. I am at that point, where I have realized my (home) kitchen weakness. And I want a fresh beginning.

It’s like when you open your cabinet door, your Tupperware (mysteriously) multiplied, and tumbles out all over your feet. You groan in discontent and have to pull every last piece of plastic out to reorganize right then and there. Or maybe that’s just me, but—it’s the tipping point.

So I am vowing to get my mise en place back on in my kitchen. If you hate cooking, it might be that you just need to get organized before go time. I am ready to give up this bad chaotic habit. What about you?

Get organized and make these ice cream sandwiches; they do not disappoint.

Dark Chocolate Hazelnut Cookies
Adapted from Everyday Italian

½ cup old-fashioned oats
2 ¼ cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
½ tsp salt
1 cup unsalted butter, room temperature
1 ½ cup (packed) light brown sugar
½ cup sugar
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
1 cup hazelnuts – some fine chop, some rough chop
½ – ¾ pound dark chocolate bar – rough chop

Heat oven to 325 F. Chop the oats in a food processor until fine. Mix the dry ingredients in a medium bowl (oats, flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt). In a large bowl blend the butter, brown sugar, sugar, eggs, and vanilla with an electric mixer or a professional mixer with the paddle attachment. The mixture should be smooth and uniform. Slowly add the dry mixture to the large bowl and mix until just combined. Finally add the chocolate chunks and nuts. Let the mixture sit for at least a half an hour in the fridge.

Drop small rounds onto a parchment lined cookie sheet. Cook for 15 minutes or until golden. Place cookies on a cooling rack. Serve with ice cream.

Chefs Collaborate, I benefit

Thursday, September 17th, 2009

I am no longer a rockstar. I used to cook in uniform until 11:00pm making challah bread, ropa vieja, and guacamole mousse. I am now asleep on the couch by 9:30pm. I guess I have slipped into my old routine of couch snoozing. I have to tell you that I lied about cooking every night this week. Brian had to make dinner Wednesday night. I came home late and stuffed. I had a big day at the Chefs Collaborative. The food at this event was just unbelievable. Maybe that’s why I was asleep by 9:30pm…I was in a food meditation.

I was invited to volunteer with the Chefs Collaborative on Wednesday afternoon. This organization has a mission to advocate for sustainability in the food community and connect chefs with food producers. The group was hosting their national summit and it culminated with a lunch at Café Brauer in Lincoln Park. I was there to help set up, break down, and serve the food of course. It was like I had a backstage pass to the culinary all-star game. I was hanging in the kitchen with Paul Kahan, Carrie Nahabedian, Andrew Zimmerman, and Rick Bayless among others. This may mean something to you, it may not, but for me it was awesome.

I served dish after dish, hearing the guests rave about the food, talk about the tacos being “f-ing spicy,” and going nuts over the fresh peaches. Luckily it was noisy in dining room because my stomach was hungry and doing a lot of talking of its own. After the guests had mounds of food on their plates, a makeshift buffet was set up in the kitchen for the staff and volunteers. I grabbed a plate and surveyed the unbeatable lineup. I kept thinking, what would a meal like this cost if I went to each restaurant individually? I thought about how the chefs were so calm while they were prepping. I thought…no…I stopped thinking and just sat down to eat. Yes, the taco was “f-ing spicy,” but in a really good way; I missed out on the goat cheese cake (sad); was pleasantly surprised by the charcuterie; and loved the marinated kale with peaches.

We almost missed dessert, but just as we were clearing the chairs, someone made an announcement that the cookies and crustadas were outside. I tried my hardest to be a good volunteer and not run out to be the first in line. So I continued to man my post and break down chairs. But as soon as it was somewhat appropriate, I grabbed my friend and slyly walked out to the patio. Two new favorite desserts…thanks Mindy Segal.

At home, Brian made a brat and mac and cheese for dinner. I skipped the brat and had the smallest bowl of mac and cheese. It was about all I could manage after my luncheon feast. Did I mention I was encouraged to bring some of the desserts home? I took a handful without hesitation. So just before I fell asleep it was one more crostata (maybe I am rockstar after all) and then it was lights out for me.

For recipes sake, here is what I made earlier in the week. Enjoy.

Two Mushroom Risotto
Adapted from: Fanny at Chez Panisse

4 cups chicken stock
1 TBS butter
1 TBS olive oil
1 small onion – medium dice
1 cup arborio rice
1 bay leaf
1 sprig fresh thyme sprig
s and p
truffle oil to taste
parmesan cheese to taste

Heat the chicken stock in a small saucepan over medium heat. Heat a large heavy bottom sauce pan over medium heat. Add the butter and olive oil. Then add the onions and cook until translucent. Add the rice, thyme and bay leaf. Cook for 5 minutes and season with salt and pepper. Use a large ladle to add the stock. Add just enough so that the rice is covered. Continue to stir until the stock is absorbed. Repeat this process continually until the rice is tender and all of the stock is used. This should take 15 – 20 minutes. Add some parmesan cheese and truffle oil to taste.

1 TBS olive oil
1 small onion – small dice
8 shiitake mushrooms tops – julienne cut
s and p
sherry vinegar

In a small fry pan, heat the olive oil over medium to high heat. Add the onion and mushrooms and sauté until tender. Season with salt and pepper. Hit with a splash of sherry vinegar (to taste) to finish.

Well (I’m) Done

Thursday, September 10th, 2009

I am a graduate with no official job, but one fine title—certified chef! After my final evening at Kendall, I came home, plopped on the couch, and just sat there amazed that the year was already over. It certainly was a wild ride.

My last night at school was a speedy 20-minute test—my classmates and I were certainly going out. Instead of post class drinks, we (naturally) decided on celebration food. Rick Bayless, our favorite Chicago chef, just opened his new restaurant, Xoco (SHO-koh).  Rick focuses on fresh, sustainable products, is a James Beard Award winner and the ‘Top Chef Master.’ It was a unanimous decision to scoot over to his new torta shop. We walked in the front door chattering away only to realize that Bayless was working the line. We were about 10 feet from the star and trying to act as ‘normal’ as possible. It seemed too perfect that we were new graduates and (possibly) going to meet our culinary icon. My mood was far from shy so I walked straight up to the manager told him who we were and asked about the probability of a picture. No problem; sure enough the chef came out from behind the line, shook our hands and it was photo go-time. We pose, and the manager holds my camera in place. I was not ready, and smiling, I was talking (because my camera was breaking down). One more inept tick to the tally. But, it was the ideal graduation bonus. If you live in Chicago, go to Xoco—the food was unpretentiously delicious. Rick captures a fresh and comforting profile in every dish.

I started school as an uncomfortable suited chef-in-training who was wobbly cutting carrots and onions. I learned and labored over the five mother sauces (béchamel, tomato, velouté, espagnole, and hollandaise). I made a pitiful first impression plate presentation. I loved breads, and hated cakes. I can layer flavors, cook nutritionally, and became a whiz at pasta construction. School was entertaining, demanding, engaging, and intimidating all at the same time. It is so hard to sum up an entire year in culinary school. But, it was a year focused on chipping away at the culinary culture.

People have assumed that my husband, Brian, has had it made. I mean a wife in culinary school? That has to be the life, right?! The truth was that Brian had to learn to cook for himself. I would come home at 11:30pm in a soiled, smelly uniform, and immediately zone out. Next week I am going to give the new self-taught chef a break. Home cooked meals are on the way, I promise.

Culinary school taught me to work with my dish and to love my food. But most importantly that cooking is and always will be a work in progress. In the spirit of Xoco, here are some recipes that are understated, soothing, and fresh. I know I found my appetite.

Swiss Chard Risotto Soup
adapted from Recipes from a Kitchen Garden

My mom made this soup on Sunday night.

1/4 cup butter

1/4 cup yellow onion – medium dice

2 bunches swiss chard – 1/2 inch strips

6 to 7 cups chicken stock

3/4 cup arborio rice

1/2 cup parmesan cheese

s and p

In a stockpot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until translucent. Add the chard; cook and cover for 4-5 minutes. Add the chicken stock bring to a boil and add the aborio rice. Cover and cook for 20 minutes or until the rice is cooked. If the soup is too thick, add more stock. Add the parmesan cheese and season with s and p. Garnish with additional parmesan cheese.

Coconut Lime Granita

adapted from Cooking Light

2 1/2 cups water

3/4 cup sugar

1 TBS lime zest

1/2 cup fresh lime juice (approx. 4 limes)

1/2 cup coconut milk (generous)

Combine all ingredients in a saucepan. Heat over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Pour the mixture into a shallow baking dish. Let sit until slightly cooled; freeze for at least 8-9 hours. Scrape the mixture with a fork. It will be light and fluffy (unlike mine that I made in a rush). Garnish with a lime wedge.

Harvest Table

Thursday, September 3rd, 2009

Have I mentioned that I do not even own a kitchen table? It’s a little weird that I don’t have one, I know—but my kitchen is small(ish). I have a breakfast bar where I eat my cereal and sandwiches; I have a coffee table, where Brian and I sit on the floor to nosh on dinner; and then we have a dining room table, which is where we eat our fancy meals or dinner with guests.

My dining room table was a gift from my parents; it’s the table I grew up with and has plenty of character—I can still see my 4th grade English paper etched in the wood (sorry, Mom). Regardless of all the love that my brothers and I gave that table, it is still so grand. Dining room tables suggest sophistication—I prefer the comfort of a kitchen table (clearly).

I dream about my future house, with a big kitchen and the inviting table it will accommodate. The table is long, rugged, and bordered by two benches—squeeze-ability of guests is very important to me. If I find this table someday, I am without a doubt buying it on the spot (house or not).

Kitchen tables are great because it is ok to pick off other people’s plates (right?), roll corn in a full stick of butter, and then eat that corn straight from the cob. Corn is currently in its peak season, so I hope you are eating it at least 3 times a week. There are a few ways that I like my corn—on the cob with chipotle mayo, on the cob with butter and cayenne, or popped with Tabasco.

Eating sweet corn by way of a candlelit coffee table will do for now. But until the table arrives I am going to enjoy sitting on the floor. Because I can literally fall over with no consequences and say, oh man, that was some good sweet corn.

Grilled Salmon with Orange Basil Relish, Red Quinoa, and Chipotle Mayo Sweet Corn

Orange Basil Relish
2 oranges – supremes (cut orange into segments)
3 TBS basil – chiffonade
1/2 cup red onion – small dice
1 jalapeno – no seeds, minced
1 TBS olive oil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
s and p

Combine ingredients. Let sit for 15 minutes prior to serving.

Salmon
2 salmon fillets
s and p

Season the salmon with salt and pepper. Grill over high heat for 5-6 minutes on each side or until cooked and tender.

Red Quinoa
1 cup red quinoa
2 cups salted water

Combine the ingredients in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer–cover. Cook for approximately 15 minutes or until the water is absorbed. The quinoa germ ring should be visible and “hug” the grain. There will be a slight crunch to the grain.

To serve: place a spoonful of quinoa on each plate. Add a small amount of the relish juice, then the salmon and finally the substantial ingredients from the relish.

Chipotle Mayo Sweet Corn
2 ears of corn – shucked
1/2 cup light mayo
Louisiana Hot Sauce to taste

Heat a large pot of salted water over high heat. Toss the corn into the boiling water for 6-8 minutes. Combine the mayo and hot sauce. Remove corn and serve with the hot mayo.